gardengateknitsewcraft.co.uk - Hints & TipsWE HAVE PUT TOGETHER SOME HELPFUL HINTS AND TIPS FOR SEWING, KNITTING, CROCHET. IF YOU HAVE ANY TIPS OR WOOL/CRAFT/SEWING/DRESSMAKING RELATED HINTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE, PLEASE CONTACT US. WE WOULD LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU!
Please recommend this page by clicking on the Google +1 button!
 HOW TO DARN SOCKS USING A DARNING MUSHROOM
We have been selling Prym darning mushrooms for many years and, together with our carded darning wool, it is one of our most popular haberdashery product. The red painted mushroom cap with its white spots on the top has not altered much over the years. The tool is a pretty addition to your sewing/mending box and is an attractive alternative to the traditional (and rather boring) plain darning mushroom used in past times. In these times of austerity, it is always preferable to make do and mend, rather than throw away easily repairable socks, gloves and knitwear. Darning socks is a little bit like weaving and, with practice, your technique will greatly improve. Here is a rough guide to darning a sock using a darning mushroom, darning needles, darning wool and a great deal of patience!
The best needle to use for a darning project is a size 14/18 darning needle because the “eye” of the needle is of a reasonable size and the sewing point is ideal (a knitters bodkin needle is better used to sew up seams in newly knitted sweaters as it will usually have a thicker blunt end rather than a point). Select a darning thread that is close to the colour and thickness of the sock that you are darning.
When you are ready to begin darning, carefully stretch the sock or knitted item over the domed cap of the mushroom tool, then gather securely around the stalk to hold in place with your non-sewing hand. The hole of the knitted piece should be in the middle of the mushroom cap. Thread your needle with the darning wool. It is advisable to use a long piece of yarn to avoid unnecessary breaks and joins in the thread. The patch of darning work should exceed the outer edges of the hole (by approximately ½” but this depends on the size of the sock) and it is better to keep the patch square wherever possible. It is not usually necessary to knot the end of the yarn if the patch is “weaved” tightly enough as this should hold the thread in place. However, if you prefer to knot the end of the yarn, pull the thread through and leave approximately ½” to 1” of yarn that can be snipped off later. Begin by inserting the darning needle in the “good” part of the knitted garment approximately ½” away from the hole. Work several rows into the unbroken/good part of the knitted item all around the outside of the hole to be patched. Next, commence sewing a running stitch across the hole. Carry on sewing running stitches until the hole is completely covered with a framework of parallel stitches. Keep your thread reasonably tight and your stitches neat in order to avoid bumps in the weave. You will now need to repeat the stitching by working in the opposite direction across the parallel stitches, weaving in and out of the framework of stitches that have previously been sewn. Fill in any gaps by weaving the running stitch through them, until the hole in the sock is totally covered with a tight weave. It is best not to secure a knot to finish, simply weave the end of the thread into the finished woven framework of stitches.
HOW TO USE A HEMLINE BALLPOINT SNAG REPAIR NEEDLE
The Hemline snag repair needle is a super handy gadget to keep in your sewing box/knitting bag! To use, simply insert the ball pointed end of the needle directly into the centre of the snag. Gently push needle through fabric. Whilst pulling needle out from the back of the fabric, twist needle slightly.
HOW TO USE FUSIBLE INTERFACING/INTERLINING
 Interfacing is it a third layer of fabric applied between two other layers to provide shape, stability and structure to garments and to enhance durability. It is used in buttonhole areas to keep them from stretching and distorting, in collars and cuffs to add crispness, and in handmade bags/facings to give stability. In tailoring, it allows the garment to retain the shape that is built in during the construction process. Interfacing is available in different weights - light, medium and heavy and can be fusible (iron on) or sewn-in. We have a comprehensive range of interfacing available in our shop.
FUSIBLE (ALSO KNOWN AS IRON ON) INTERFACING
Fusible interfacing/interlining is not suitable for all materials. Non-fusible interfacing is a better choice for highly textured/open weave fabrics and those fabrics that cannot take the heat of an iron. Most interfacings are not washable, so you may want to wash the fabric first. Applying fusible interfacing requires patience! Fusible interfacing usually has two sides, one that is smooth and one that is not so smooth. Before fusing the interfacing to the fabric, take some scrap pieces of the interfacing and the fabric and experiment to find the timing and technique that works best for you and your project.
For lightweight fabric and interfacing, set the iron temperature a little higher than what is recommended for the fabric – a press cloth will protect it from the extra heat. For medium to heavyweight fabric and interfacing, set iron to wool. Let the iron heat up to ensure it’s nice and hot. Place fabric piece on ironing board wrong side up. Centre the interfacing on top of it, adhesive side down (the adhesive side is usually a shiny side or has raised bumps on it). If you did not pre-shrink the interfacing prior to cutting it out, steam shrink it now by placing your iron over the interfacing piece (without touching it) and steam it for a few seconds. Steam-baste the interfacing in place by touching it in several places with the tip of your iron. This will bond the interfacing lightly to your fabric so that it will not move during the fusing process. Dampen the press cloth using a spray bottle – making it evenly damp, but not soaking wet. Place press cloth on top of the interfacing. Place your iron straight down onto one section of your fabric piece and apply a firm, even pressure. Do not slide your iron around.
For lightweight fabric and interfacing, press and hold for about ten seconds. For medium to heavyweight fabric and interfacing, press and hold for ten to fifteen seconds. After the time has elapsed, lift iron. The press cloth should be dry. If it is not, raise the iron temperature or leave the iron on the fabric piece a few seconds longer. Then place the iron straight down onto the next section to be fused, overlapping some onto the first section. Press and hold for the appropriate time. Lift your iron and repeat this process until the entire piece has been pressed. Then turn the piece over and iron it on the right side. Leave your fabric piece in place until it has cooled completely. Moving the piece while it is still warm can interfere with the bonding process.
SEW IN INTERFACING
If you are using special fabrics, such as velvet, beaded, sequin or vinyl, the best option is sew-in interlining. Sew-in interfacing is easy to use - just cut the interfacing to size slightly smaller than the pattern piece and carefully tack or pin to fabric before making your garment as normal. This product can also be used to trace and cut your basic patterns.
HOW TO USE A TRACING WHEEL WITH TRACING PAPER
There are two types of tracing wheels available to dressmakers, one with a toothed/serrated (spiked) metal edge, and one with a smooth edge, like a flat round disc. In addition to this, double tracing wheels have two serrated wheels and allow sewing/seam lines and cutting edges to be marked at the same time and are particularly useful for marking decorative stitching work. It is advisable to use a firm padded surface, such as a cutting mat, beneath your fabric, to avoid damage to furniture. The choice is an individual one - a serrated edge wheel is more popular than a smooth edge because it will make dotted marks on your fabric that are usually easier to remove. Smooth edge tracing wheels will make a solid line on your fabric when used with tracing paper. Smooth edge wheels are best for delicate fabrics that snag easily, and serrated edge wheels are suited to closely woven materials. We sell a comprehensive range of tracing wheels and the Prym premium quality tracing wheel has a comfortable, smooth wood handle, and serrated edge. Whilst holding the handle of the tool, the tracing wheel can be moved around and used to create buttonholes or to transfer markings and designs from patterns to fabric when creating garments. The tracing wheel can be used with/without tracing paper. When the tracing wheel is used to trace a garment pattern onto tracing paper, the paper is first cut, and then placed on to the fabric. The fabric is then carefully cut along the pattern (sharp dressmakers shears are ideal for large pieces) and sewn together to create a garment. The tracing wheel also makes slotted perforations and markings by carefully applying pressure. These markings might include pleats, buttonholes, darts, or placement lines for pockets. Tracing wheels are also handy for quilting and patchwork projects. Helpful Hint: Care should be taken if using a tracing wheel to mark patterns on some special materials, such as vinyl or leather and it is best to use a smooth edge wheel on such fabrics, in order to avoid leaving visible marks on the finished garment. If you are using tracing paper to mark a buttonhole, be careful not to over-mark. Because buttonhole marking is done on the right side of the fabric, you need to avoid causing additional marks on the fabric. For ladies garments, buttonholes should be marked on the right hand side, mens shirts are always marked on the left hand side.
HOW TO USE PRYM DRESSMAKERS TRACING PAPER Prym dressmakers tracing paper 611282 is a superb quality paper that has certainly stood the test of time. This product, which is available in our shop, is easy to use and here is a quick guide: Before commencing tracing, test on a fabric sample that markings can be removed (washing or dry cleaning will usually remove any trace of the lines). Place the tracing paper on the surface/cutting mat with the coloured side facing upwards. Place the fabric on top with the wrong side facing downwards. Pin pattern piece on to the fabric, and carefully trace lines with a tracing wheel, exerting a little pressure. Trace each of the marks with your tracing wheel so that all of the pattern design is transferred to the tracing paper. Carefully cut the tracing paper according to the layout instructions, to fit the required measurements.
HOW TO TRACE PATTERNS USING IRON ON PATTERN PENCILS
If you want to use a iron on pattern pencil to trace your design, we do have the Prym iron on pencil available. How do you use this pencil? We have been asked this question so many times, we thought we would add the information right here!
Place transparent paper on pattern then trace lines with the iron-on pattern pencil. If your pattern or design has to appear as drawn, then turn over the transparent paper and trace again to create a mirror image - do this with a text design as well as a picture design. Apply colour firmly and gently blow away any "crumbs". Place transparent paper with "final marking" face down on the fabric and iron over the motif from the reverse. It is important that you never draw directly on to the fabric. HOW TO USE VILENE BONDAWEB Trace or draw the motif design on to the paper side of Bondaweb. Place adhesive coated side down onto the wrong side of the fabric. Dry iron for approx. 5 seconds to transfer the adhesive web from the backing paper to the fabric. Lay the adhesive coated size down, cover with a damp cloth, and iron on step by step for 15 seconds in each area, pressing down firmly. Leave to cool. Cut the motif out and peel off the backing paper.
HOW TO USE VILENE STITCH 'N' TEAR Vilene Stitch ‘N’ Tear is a white colour tear away backing for all types of decorative needlework. Ideal for machine embroidery, appliqué, monogramming, cutwork and relief quilting. Stitch N Tear provides a better way to support decorative needlework, preventing fabrics from puckering, giving smooth finished edges and adding stability to the design. This product is washable to 60 degrees, may be tumble dried, and is dry cleanable. Easy to follow users guide: Attach a piece of Vilene Stitch N Tear that is slightly bigger than the motif, to the wrong side of the fabric. Next, tear off the excess Stitch N Tear. Embroider your design. To help create high relief quilts and quilted effects, the motif can first be drawn on to the Stitch N Tear. The non-woven is then attached to the handicraft item or garment, the motif is sewn on and, finally, the Stitch N Tear is torn off.
HOW TO USE HEMLINE HORSEHAIR BRAID Hemline horsehair braid is a super product that stiffens and supports hem edges so that they flair and is ideal for bridalwear and evening wear. This product, available in our shop in a 15mm and 25mm width, is both washable and dry-cleanable. To use the horsehair braid, you can either follow the instructions on the back of the pack or as printed here: Before applying the horsehair braid, you need to carefully steam press it to remove any creases (use a low heat - do not use a hot iron). Mark hemline, trim allowance to 6mm (¼”). Using a long machine stitch, ease stitch one edge of braid. On right side of garment, align unstitched edge of braid with hemline, fold ends of braid under at seam. Stitch close to edge of braid. Turn braid up along hemline and baste close to fold. Pull ease thread to draw up fullness; press and pin. Slipstitch free edge of braid to garment; whipstitch abutted braid ends together. Press hem carefully.
HOW TO KNIT WITH A FRENCH KNITTING DOLL
French knitting dollies, also known as a knitting Nancy or Tricotin, have been around forever. Keep up this traditional fun craft by teaching your child/grandchild to knit with a French knitting dolly. We sell authentic or modern dollies, the choice is yours and basic instructions are provided on this page: French knitting is simple and great fun! You will need some yarn and a French knitting dolly. Begin by threading the end of the yarn down through the top of the dolly, so that approximately 10cm hangs out of the bottom. Wind the yarn twice, anti-clockwise around one of the metal spikes located on the top of the dolly. Try not to pull the yarn too tight otherwise you won't be able to “knit”. Using the wooden “pin” provided with the dolly, hook the bottom loop over the top loop and drop it over the spike into the centre of the dolly. Turn the dolly anti-clockwise so that an empty spike is towards you. Wind the yarn twice around this spike anti-clockwise. Using the wooden pin, lift the bottom loop over the top loop, into the centre of the dolly, turn the dolly anti-clockwise so that an empty spike faces you. Wind the yarn twice around this spike, anti-clockwise. Using the wooden pin, lift the bottom loop over the top loop, into the centre of the dolly. Turn the dolly anti-clockwise so that the fourth and final empty spike faces you. Wind the yarn just once around the spike anti-clockwise. Using the wooden pin, lift the bottom loop over the top loop, into the centre of the dolly. Pull the end of the yarn that hangs out of the base of the dolly, to tighten your work. Repeat the French knitting until the woollen chain is the length required.
THE ART OF KNITTING
Knitters Corner
We Are Also Woolly Knitters! If, like us, you love to knit, then you will know how fulfilling the completion of a new sweater, scarf, jacket or cardigan etc., can be when your project is finally finished. We often like to improvise when knitting to a pattern, by adding our own “twist” to the garment, perhaps with a slightly different cable design. We are also keen to recycle our completed projects when they have outworn their welcome! We are not averse to unpicking garments and re-knitting them into something different - an excellent way of creating something new out of something old because there are times when one just cannot bear to throw that faithful sweater away! If you have a photograph of a knitted (or crocheted) project that you would like added to our “Knitters Wall”, please let us know.
Knitting Needle Size Conversion Chart
THE ART OF CROCHET
Crochet is a versatile craft and relatively easy to learn, you just need a hook and a ball of yarn/thread. The art of crochet is simple – you need to hold one hook and work one stitch at a time. There are two ways to hold the hook, a pencil grip where you hold the hook just like you would a pencil or pen, or a knife grip. For left handers, crocheting with the left hand is exactly the same as for right handers, but with the hook and thread in reverse position (hook in left hand, thread wrapped around the right hand). Once you have mastered the basic stitches, you can create some wonderful accessories for your home or garments for yourself. Go on, what’s stopping you! Crochet hook sizes differ depending on country, the brand of hook and even on the age of the crochet pattern. We have a superb range of crochet hooks available to purchase. Our Darice coloured hooks will add a splash of colour whilst you work, and our Prym plastic handle hooks are very comfortable to use if you suffer from arthritic fingers.
SEASONAL/CHRISTMAS CRAFT IDEAS Here are some simple Christmas/Seasonal craft ideas:
Hand Made Hats Scarves Blankets Home made crafts are the nicest way to show someone that you really care. Why not make a very special and personal gift by knitting a pair of gloves and winter hat or scarf? We sell knitting looms in a variety of shapes and sizes, plus patterns and gorgeous winter-warm chunky yarn for knitting projects.
Tunisian Crochet Afghan Blankets Why not make a very special gift for someone to keep them warm and cosy on cold winter nights - Tunisian crochet, also known as Afghan crochet, uses an elongated hook, just like a knitting needle with a stopper on the other end. Working with a Tunisian/Afghan hook forms a stitch that is similar to knitting which is used to create large flat pieces such as the blankets that have come to be called Afghans. We sell Prym Tunisian hooks, please click here for more details
Decorative Pine Cones Collect pine cones (Scots pine cones are the best ones we have tried) and carefully tap a nail into the bottom of each cone. Then either paint or decorate the cone with snow spray and hang in your window or from the Christmas tree using different lengths of festive red ribbon. We sell a wide range of superb Berisford ribbons, please click here
Personalised Messages If you already use cook's writing icing tubes then you will know that these are available in a wide range of colours. Dress up your Christmas dinner table with some very special "messages" for loved ones and friends. You can spell out festive messages using the sugar cubes by “piping” a letter on each cube and arranging decoratively around dinner plates or on table runners.
Christmas Treats Fill brightly coloured Turkish glasses carefully with small amounts of brightly wrapped sweets, toffees and treats for that extra special touch. You can add delicious pink/white marshmallows, Turkish delight cubes, mini shortbread or home-baked biscuits.
Christmas Gifts with Pom Poms Add a splash of style to your wrapped presents by making pom poms using a fluffy eyelash yarn and pom pom maker. We sell pom pom makers by Pony and Whitecroft which are plastic and, therefore, re-usable. These are more economical as they will last considerably longer than the handmade cardboard version! To see our pom pom makers and Darice pom pom looms, please click here
Darice Mini Bowdabra and Bowdabra Designer Bow Makers Our best selling craft tool for many years, remains the ever-popular Darice Bowdabra bow maker/favour maker. The Bowdabra is perfect for creating professional looking gorgeous ribbon bows on giftwrap and for creating sensational corsages, hair barrettes, party favours etc.
More creative ideas for the large Bowdabra are: designer hand towel cakes, decorative pillows and cushions, floral arrangements, seasonal swags for pictures and mantles, christmas ornaments and tree toppers, decorative candles, table settings, bridesmaid's headpiece, flowergirl bouquet ball, storm candles, valentines wreath, topiary... For more details of the products in our Crafts & Kits shop category, please click here
For more details of the products in our Crafts & Kits shop category, please click here
If you would like to share any clever Hints & Tips, and would like to see them displayed on this page, please contact us using the form provided on the Contact Us page. We would love to hear from you!
We do not accept any responsibility for damage caused by following/creating/handling/using any of these products or craft ideas
Copyright © 2004-2011 gardengateknitsewcraft.co.uk All Rights Reserved. Designated trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our trading Terms and Conditions
|
